Emanuel Ungaro refreshes menswear with GST partnership

By

Dominique Muret

Translated by
Isabelle Crossley

Published
Dec 12, 2019

Emanuel Ungaro’s menswear line is getting a fresh start. The luxury brand has completely reorganised the management and production of its menswear and has ambitious plans for the segment. The brand has entrusted production of the line to manufacturer GST (Gruppo Sviluppo Tessile) which is based in Sava in Puglia, Italy, and specialises in suits and sportswear.

The first collection under this partnership will be for autumn/ winter 2020/ 2021 and will be unveiled at the Pitti Uomo trade show in January 2020. This new five-year renewable licence covers the production and distribution of Ungaro's ready-to-wear and sportswear products and is designed to facilitate international expansion as the line is currently marketed in France and Italy, the Parisian brand told FashionNetwork.com. 

Emanuel Ungaro’s menswear line relaunched in 2015 by positioning itself in the premium contemporary men’s segment of the market with a more relaxed attitude. The project was entrusted to designer Philippe Paubert, who knew the brand well as, joining the label in 1992, he had spent eight years working alongside founder Emanuel Ungaro.

GST was founded in 1994 by brothers Salvatore and Sergio Toma. The business, with its new Emanuel Ungaro licence, aims to create a clothing production centre in Italy centring around the new entity Toma Italian Brands. GST also holds licences for Alessandro Dell’Acqua (not to be confused with that of the eponymous creator of the N° 21 label) and also develops the collections for its own brands Havana & Co and Angelo Toma.

Emanuel Ungaro’s previous partner, Italian business Alea Fashion Industries, had held the master licence for its menswear line since autumn/ winter 2016/ 2017 and will continue to produce shirts, its speciality. Emanuel Ungaro has also found new licence holders for two other product categories.

The brand recently entrusted its licence for men’s footwear to Rodolfo Zengarini which is now in charge for production and distribution of the line from spring/ summer 2020. For its leather goods such as small accessories and belts, Emanuel Ungaro has partnered with the Italian manufacturer Milano Fashion which also produces accessories for Trussardi.