363
Fashion Jobs
UNDER ARMOUR
Associate, HR Administration
Permanent · SEOUL
ARKET
Visual Merchandising Manager
Permanent · BUSAN
PUIG
Marketing Manager
Permanent · SEOUL
JAEGER
[Jaeger Lecoultre] Marketing & Communication Director
Permanent · SEOUL
ESTÉE LAUDER COMPANIES
Corporate Account Executive For Travel Retail Korea, Estee Lauder Companies
Permanent ·
ESTÉE LAUDER - BRAND
Assistant Education Manager, Estee Lauder
Permanent · SEOUL
L'OREAL GROUP
[l'Oreal Korea] Luxe Div. - Lancome E-Commerce Specialist
Permanent · SEOUL
COS
Instore Visual Merchandiser Manager_seoul/Gyeonggi
Permanent · SEOUL METROPOLITAN AREA
AESOP
Shinsegae Gwangju - Retail Consultant
Permanent · GWANGJU
COACH
Manager, Ecommerce
Permanent · SEOUL
ADIDAS
Manager, Business Planning & Analysis, Wholesales
Permanent · SEOUL
HENKEL
Adhesive Key Account Manager For Sports And Fashion Market
Permanent · BUSAN
HENKEL
Consumer Brands General Manager Assistant
Permanent ·
HYPEBEAST
Brand Partnership Manager
Permanent · SEOUL
ADIDAS
Manager, Retail Marketing - Originals, Brand Adidas
Permanent · SEOUL
ADIDAS
Manager, bu - Football Apparel, Brand Adidas
Permanent · SEOUL
SWAROVSKI
District Manager (Travel Retail)
Permanent · SEOUL
SHISEIDO
E-Key Account Manager, Cosmetics&Fragrance (Korean Only)
Permanent · SEOUL
ADIDAS
sr. Manager, Process Excellence & Analytics, Scm
Permanent · SEOUL
ADIDAS
Director, Performance Management/s&op
Permanent · SEOUL
LEVI'S
DTC Assistant Marketing Manager
Permanent ·
AMORE PACIFIC
[경력] '24년 Amorepacific_기술기획 직무 채용
Permanent ·
By
AFP
Published
Jan 21, 2016
Reading time
3 minutes
Download
Download the article
Print
Text size

Paris fashion ponders modern machismo

By
AFP
Published
Jan 21, 2016

Once in times of trouble, males were expected to man up and put on uniforms.

But the big theme so far of this week's Paris menswear collections are clothes that offer comfort and protection, with supersized jackets to hide inside and cocooning coats you might wrap a baby in.

Rick Owens Menswear FW16/17, Paris Fashion Week - PixelFormula


Faced with a world looking ever more threatening and unstable, fashion seems to be running scared.

Even such usually defiant designers as the Californian Rick Owens -- one of whose models once notoriously carried a sign saying "Please kill Angela Merkel" -- appear to have been winded by events in a city hit three times in less than a year by major terror attacks.

Despite the sound and fury of his catwalk show in an apocalyptic underground bunker, his most telling creations were a series of cuddy all-enveloping sleeping bag coats.

- Tellytubbie coats -

These huge walking comfort blankets uncannily echoed Off-White's Tellytubbie greatcoats shown on Wednesday, and Raf Simons' gigantic puffa jackets seen later that evening.

Raf Simons Menswear FW16/17, Paris Fashion Week - PixelFormula


Belgian designer Walter Van Beirendonck, meanwhile, made no pretence of pandering to whatever is left of machismo by creating wearable cuddly toys to get men through these troubling times.

The huggable "doudou scarves" featured in his Wednesday show "Woest" -- furious in his native Flemish -- had dolls and cute animal shapes at one end and AK47s and other weapons at the other.

While Owens refused to tell AFP what was the thinking behind the zombie invasion feel of his show, van Beirendonck made no bones about the fact that the "depressing" state of the world had been his inspiration.

"It is a mixture of very sweet things and very aggressive things which is what the world is like now.... What has happened in the last year has been really depressing," he said.

- No genitals -

In fact, the big shock of the Owens' show was there were no shocks after two years in which his models were forced to carry each other down the catwalk or display their genitals.

Issey Miyake Menswear FW16/17, Paris Fashion Week - PixelFormula


It fell to the Japanese fashion house Issey Miyake to go in search of a more "primal man".

Drawing upon the tough existence of Mongolian nomads, its artistic director Yusuke Takahashi talked of how their "constant struggle with nature... made man learn to rely on his instincts to survive in a harsh environment."

He compared urban cyclists to the horsemen of the steppes who led Genghis Khan's Golden Horde, creating colourful bike friendly combos -- often using horse-hair thread -- that mixed claret, blue and Buddhist saffron hues.

While there was plenty of woolly comfort in his collection, for him clothes had to be sturdy, practical and masculine as well as beautiful. "I wanted to design more functional clothes for urban people, cycling commuters or business travellers. It was important they were washable and durable," Takahashi said.

"When I was in Mongolia I saw a lot of people on horses. I think the bicycle is the modern urban dweller's horse."

Copyright © 2024 AFP. All rights reserved. All information displayed in this section (dispatches, photographs, logos) are protected by intellectual property rights owned by Agence France-Presse. As a consequence you may not copy, reproduce, modify, transmit, publish, display or in any way commercially exploit any of the contents of this section without the prior written consent of Agence France-Presses.